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Meet the winemaker – Guenole Breteaudeau at Domaine des Malandes


Meet the winemaker – Guenole Breteaudeau
Guenole started as a winemaker Domaine des Malandes in 2006 and works closely with the owners, the Marchive family, to make wines with great purity and precision.
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Do you remember when & how you first began working with Averys?
OVER 25 YEARS!

What is it about the Chablis region and Domaine des Malandes in particular, that makes the wines so distinct? 
The soils (Kimmeridgian & Portlandian) and the foresight of Amandine’s grandfather who swapped agricultural  land for vineyard sites - Vaudesirs, Clos, 1er Crus Lechet and Montmains. He then planted using the old rootstock which is what sets the Domaine apart. Also, they were the first growers to revitalise the 1er Cru Vau de Vey, which has been abandoned since the Second World War because of its steep incline.

We’re currently selling the 2016 vintage Domaine des Malandes Chablis – can you tell us a bit more about this vintage?
Difficult is an understatement. First there were frosts, then a hot summer, which shrivelled the grapes thus less juice. Then the hail came – the 10 ha in Chablis villages ( Prehy ) totally destroyed. This lead to a 60% less of a normal crop. However, the wines are crisp and with great clarity which are for drinking over the next 5 years.

I understand following the hail in 2016, you become the first grower in Chablis to trial hail nets. How did this come about? 
It was a massive investment of over 100k€ just for the equipment. However this was a practical decision Lyne (Marchive) made before she handed over to her children, Amandine & Richard. The reason being that the Prehy vineyard had been hailed 14 years out of 30 years. Therefore, with insurance increasing that only pays the fruit at cost, at least by the use of hail protection there will be a harvest, and will pay back the investment over 10-12 years. The one caveat is that this experiment is overseen by the INAO to make sure that this system does not influence the style of Chablis.

Finally, for those customers looking ahead to 2017 Chablis ‘en primeur’, is it a vintage worth buying?
The year again was small – not due to hail but frost!  Another year with 60% lost in volume. The first taste of these wines shows very aromatic on the nose, and has great balance and structure. Though it was small, it is a cross between 2014 and 2010, so some power but with clarity and linear style of true Chablis. Therefore, in conclusion, a year to buy and the Grands Crus will be long lasting, say 20 years+. A year to savour despite the small vintage.

Meeting Amandine Marchive at the London Wine Trade Fair


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