2017 - Small but perfectly formed
Good things come in
small packages goes the cliché, well cliché or not, the overall picture of the
Rhone in 17 is one of reduced volumes, but broadly (whisper it) excellent
quality; both North to South. In fact, the mantra being repeated by a number of
vignerons I met in the sweltering conditions of August whilst travelling the
region, was that the vintage in qualitative terms is parked somewhere between
that of the duelling titanic years of 2015 & 2016. After regaling this
sentiment to a colleague on my return, the reply was one of ‘that’s not a bad
place to be’, well indeed, and from my stand point I’d struggle not to concur.
This was a viewpoint echoed North to South.
As ever lumping the
entire all-encompassing Rhone region into one rigid narrative, or stylistic
summary is almost impossible. One only has to appreciate the different natural
surroundings of the split region. The north being the home of beautiful
terraced vineyards, starkly cooler, and arguably having more in common with
Burgundy whilst the south produces broader, richer power laden wines that speak
more of the sun beaten Mediterranean.
Naturally, these
different conditions produce at times vastly contrasting wines. However, if one
is to attempt to link the two, and outline a universal theme in 17, it is that
the best wines are personified by great natural balance and finesse, and those
smaller yields have helped marry together wines of exceedingly rich potential,
that in many cases will have the benefit of excellent ageing potential.
North-South -A Summary
In the North, after avoiding in the main part early frosts
that dotted the region, the run in was very similar to that of 2015, resulting
in a very early vintage harvest. However, while 2015 also enjoyed generous
rainfall and an abundant crop, 2017 was extremely dry, with severely reduced
yields. This has resulted in smaller berries with thinner skins. The industrial
maturity was reached very early, but the lack of water made it longer to
achieve phenolic maturity.
The South was hit by every climate accident possible, from
frost to hail and then heatwaves to drought! The frost in April-May may have
been the source of damage to the areas of Ventoux, Cairanne and Vinsobres where
coulure reduced the yield by up to 50% in CNDP. Climatically, the rain,
(or lack of it) for me is is a headline for 2017 in the south. However, only
after the spring had bought ‘a lot’ of rain, and flowering. The drought like
conditions seen across the valley in late spring, lasted through on into
harvest, which in turn was especially early. At Chateau Beaucastel they started
harvesting on August 17th, to alleviate these conditions. However,
the month of September offered a wonderful alternation of hot-sunny days and
cool nights, which enabled many vignerons to extend harvest on into early
October. Naturally, the caveat here is that volumes are down in some parts of
the South (in particular) almost 50%.
‘The 2017 vintage will be remembered
as the year of all records: the driest year in 30 years (the rain only came
back on the 3rd November, marking the end of a period of 6
consecutive months of drought, with less than 15mm of water/day), exceptionally
little work in the vineyard, optimal harvest conditions, a very small yield due
to climatic hazards and shatter, and wines with very rich potential’.
Famille Perrin
The wines – Some brief highlights
Ø The North
In the North for
those seeking out value, but more than that, for wines that speak authentically
and passionately of their region. The quality focussed négociant Ferraton
based in Tain Hermitage, are fast becoming a serious player in the region.
Their wines are marked out by great consistency throughout their range, and
subsequently these are highly recommended to all. Stephan Robert’s Domine
Tunnel is fast becoming a favourite with staff and our customers, with both
whites and reds forming a key part of this offer, and needless to say are of
course are delicious. Equally, though neither are featured in this offer
(though will be in the coming months) – both Rene Rostaing and Stephane Ogier
both showed why their names are synonymous with that most regal of appellations
Côte-Rôtie.
Ø The South
Aside from the
revered (and rightly so) Ch Beacuastel & Paul Avril’s Clos des
Papes, I was struck by the less well known, but a domaine of burgeoning
reputation – Domaine Charbonniere. Never has the term ‘iron fist in velvet glove’
felt more appropriate. A grower where it’s sisters respectful approach to
winemaking is worn proudly on it’s sleeve. These wines are a mini revelation,
and for me represent the future of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Aside
from these, again the soulful wines of Domaine Montirius delighted. Like
Charbonniere, the wines pared down nature, drawing out rich mineral flavour
works very well in 17.
Ø Whites
So often a footnote, and I’m afraid I’ve fallen into the
same trap. That being said, there is plenty not just to like, but love about
2017. The wines have managed to retain a good amount of minerality and some
salty salinity, which helps counter act some of the natural ‘fatter’ tendencies
of the wines. Of particular note are the wines of St Peray, an
appellation that is shooting up the quality radar, for consistency vs value,
exemplified by the beforementioned wines of Domaine du Tunnel. Failing all
that, if you can beg, borrow, or steal, the iconic Roussane Veilles Vignes of
Ch Beaucastel is utterly mesmerising, and very much worth searching out.
Conclusion
Whilst alluded to
before the amount of wines available are down this year. So, for those looking
to secure the best wines this year, some salient advice may be to get their
elbows out and be quick when looking to secure the prized cuvees of the region.
Our enclosed offer has been hand selected from extensive tasting, and apologies
for veering into cliché but hopefully should offer something for everyone, and
varying budgets. The Rhone continues in my opinion to provide some of the most
thought provoking and unique wine in all France, and in 2017 we have a vintage
that’s it’s many fans will be able to enjoy for many years to come.
Daniel Curtis
– September 2018
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