Thursday, 8 December 2016

Burgundy 2015 - Vintage Report


The 2015 vintage in Burgundy
Image result for matthew hemming

Burgundy is an informal place in comparison to Bordeaux, populated by farmers with dirty boots and fingernails rather than overseas investors with crisply ironed shirts and tailored suits.  That said, it would be a mistake to assume that the land of the Chevaliers du Clos Vougeot, mapped by monks in the Middle Ages, is free from a certain amount of etiquette.  

One manifestation of this is the reluctance I feel to ask producers to compare their new wines to previous vintages.  Whilst we British seem fixated on finding the next 2009, 2005, 1999 or 1990, it should appeal to our own – famous – reserve that there is something indelicate in asking someone to rate their latest ‘child’ against the elder siblings.  Social niceties aside, in pure winemaking terms it is clearly ridiculous to compare a 2015 wine to one made a decade before – vineyard techniques have changed, winemaking has changed, fashion has changed, even the climate is changing...