Friday, 24 January 2014

Bristol Jeroboam Club - Cornas Tasting - 15/01/2014

Just over a week ago our resident MW, Matthew Hemming, went along to one of the Bristol Jeroboam Club's tastings where he got to sample a fantastic array of wines and vintages from Cornas in the Rhône Valley... definitely one of the better perks to the job of Fine Wine Manager!


Cornas Granit 30 2010 - Vincent Paris 
Vivid fruit aromas with a slightly raw edge.  Bright on the palate with crisp red fruit
profile.  Very primary.  Whistle clean winemaking in the modern style.  With air, more floral and pepper Syrah notes emerge.  Slightly anonymous.  15/20

Cornas VV 2007 – Alain Voge
Very succulent fruit and some oak on the nose.  Initially this is a wine labouring beneath a thick lacquer of wood but everntually some vibrant fruit and more interesting spice tones come through.  Slightly constrained by the barrel character, this nonetheless has lovely acidity, snap and length.  16+/20



Cornas VV 2004 – Alain Voge
Still youthful but evolving some leather, musk and scented elements.  Very slightly rustic on the palate but in a charming way.  Wild and unconstrained vis a vis the 2007.  Nicely savoury with a firm tannin structure.  Long and complete.  16.5/20

*Whilst the 2007 is probably a better vintage (the finish was really promising) the 2004 was the better wine on the night.

Cornas La Geynale 2005 – Robert Michel
Complex, attractive and still pretty youthful.  Nice whole bunch action on the nose and a hint of (positive) leather.  Really taut structure with a whip of tannin.  Tight and grainy.  The mid-palate fades just a touch.  Finishes with a ferrous, mineral grip.  17/20

Cornas La Geynale 1995 – Robert Michel
Mature bouquet with a slight oxidative / fading note but also some very pretty floral tones.  Initial flavours of mushrooms, leather and herbs.  With time this builds and pulls itself together.  Has a similar ferrous seam to the 2005 but the structure is a touch angular.  A bit coarse on the finish.  16/20

Cornas Reynard 2007 – Thierry Allemand 
Pronounced and intense aromas of flowers and specifically violets.  Very pure and lifted.  Focused, blue fruit characters.  The palate has a delicacy with no lack of structure or intensity.  Fine if just a tad simple at the back of the palate.  Pure and lithe.  17/20

Cornas Reynard 1999 – Thierry Allemand
Cool fruit aromas with complex whole bunch notes and some incense scent.  A touch of (positive / complexing) brett – leather – and olives.  Silky and lithe on the palate – similar texture to the 2007.  Complex, savoury and fresh, with layers of flavour.  The finish is long, mineral and vital and the wine grows and expands over the course of the evening.  18.5/20

Cornas 2004 – Auguste Clape
Slightly subdued and sullen nose.  Savoury and stern, with some ripe, briery fruit at its core.  The palate is surprisingly ripe and ready.  Tannins are fairly airy, giving a supporting, pillowy, cushion to the fruit.  Tendre style but then dull on the mid-palate.  Ultimately a bit disappointing given the attractive front palate.  16/20

Cornas 2000 – Auguste Clape
Nicely evolved with floral, leather and hedgerow elements.  Complex palate with some meaty notes.  Has a lovely, ripe mid-palate with plenty of fruit.  Sweet, expansive and perfumed.  Drinking really well.  18/20

Cornas 1995 Auguste Clape
Evolved bouquet of sandalwood, meat and spices.  Has a distinct note of dried petals.  The palate has a lightness of touch with a fine, silky texture.  Delicate.  Becomes a bit frayed on the finish but is still lacy and pretty.  16.5/20

Cornas 1989 Auguste Clape
Much more intense and pronounced aromas than the 1995.  Really bright and still vital on the palate.  Has flavours of tapenade and spice.  Gaining a silkiness towards the finish.  Fine boned.  17.5/20

Cornas 1988 Auguste Clape
Very primary and still youthful.  Brilliantly vibrant and appears younger than the 1989.  Full and sappy on the mid-palate.  Vigourous.  Has plenty of pepper and great crunch to the profile and structure.  The finish falls away just the slightest bit.  17.5/20

Cornas St Pierre 1995 – Jaboulet
The nose has a fine and lively core of ripe, red fruit.  Compared to the other wines this is quite an individual expression of Cornas.  Quite lifted and aromatic in style but neither complex nor particularly exciting.  16+/20

Cornas 1994 – Noel Verset
Mature and tertiary with aromas of warm cinders and ash.  The smoky element is carried on to the palate.  This is extremely elegant and slender with a delicate poise.  Perfumed and very long.  Delicious.  18+/20

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