Monday, 12 March 2012

40-years of Remoissenet 1969-2009 & 2010 en primeur

By Matthew Hemming, Fine Wine Manager

We had great fun last week hosting two dinners with Pierre-Antoine Rovani, president of Remoissenet Pere et Fils.  Rovani might be a familiar name - he spent 10yrs working with Robert Parker as a reviewer for The Wine Advocate, before leaving to work for the new owners of Remoissenet.

Our dinners showcased both the mature vintages for which Remoissenet are renowned and some of their recent releases, most of which come from vineyards they either own or farm as opposed to the classic negociant model of old.  Pierre has been kind enough to open up the cellars to Averys and our customers allowing us to order the wines we served at dinner, including their last stocks of the 1969 wines.  All wines are available either by the case, in bond, or by the individual bottle.

Whilst we have a few bottles leftover from the dinners in stock, most orders from this offer will be fulfilled via a shipment direct from the Remoissenet cellars in Beaune.  We are aiming to collect the wines before the end of March, so they will be available for delivery next month.  There are also a few 2010 wines available, recently reviewed by Antonio Galloni in The Wine Advocate.

The attached offer includes two styles of white – village and Grand Cru.  The St Romain and Pernand Vergelesses book-ended our dinners.  Both are relatively modest white Burgundies, they are young but already drinking really well, and both punch well above their weight.  The St Romain finds balance by off-setting the richness of the 2009 vintage against the appellation’s naturally high acidity.  This was harvested very late, yet retains great clarity and tension on the palate.  By contrast the 2008 Pernand Vergelesses shows a tight, mineral focus and a glassy texture that cut through the creaminess of our cheese courses.  The grandest white we served was 2006 Batard Montrachet.  Remoissenet no longer produce this wine, as the vineyard was sold and they lost their source.  2006 whites often lack acidity and spine, but, whilst this had moderate acidity, it was bursting with spice and energy.  For me, a textbook expression of Batard’s powerfully muscular style, this was extremely rich and needed time in the glass to come together.  Really it needs another 2-3 years in the cellar.

We served two pairs of reds, first from the great 1969 vintage – now fully mature – then from the 2009 vintage.  The 1969 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques desmonstrated the cool climate red fruits, minerality and finesse of this vineyard.  From the same vintage, 1969 Clos Vougeot was darker-toned, richer and with a fuller texture.  The Gevrey sang treble whilst the Clos Vougeot provided the bass.  Remoissenet are now down to fewer than 120 bottles of these wines and any orders have the perfect provenance of coming direct from the producer’s cellar, where they have lain for nearly 40yrs.

The 2009 reds were Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Le Trio’ and Clos Vougeot.  Both were too young but had sufficient puppy fat to be hugely enjoyable.  The Gevrey is one of my top tips for value in 2009.  It has beautiful fruit and floral tones, a crisp structure and lovely mineral detail.  The 2009 Clos Vougeot has a formiddable tannin structure and is a wine of undeniable Grand Cru stature for long ageing.  As we saw, the 1969 has aged brilliantly over 4 decades and, in my opinion, the ’09 is a better wine with the potential to last just as long – don’t worry though; 15yrs or so should bring it to a good level of maturity.

Overall, I am thrilled with the 2010 vintage. The wines are racy, show fabulous minerality and are very true to site… The most successful 2010s are nothing less than thrilling. – Antonio Galloni 

Our offer of 2010 Remoissenet wines is included at the bottom of the attachment and we are intending to collect these at the same time as the rest of the wines in this offer.  I would pay particular attention to the Gevrey ‘Le Trio’ (90-92pts Galloni) again, as well as the Chevalier Montrachet and Chambertin Clos de Beze.  The Chevalier shimmers with energy and purity and the Beze(91-93pts) is massive and brooding at first but has a soaring finish.  Respectively, they are amongst the greatest white and red wines I have ever tasted from Remoissenet.

Do give me a call or send me an E-mail if you would like to discuss any of these wines – even if you don’t want to order any, you may well have these in the cellar so I hope my notes are of use.  I will be with Bernard Repolt, at Remoissenet, this time next week, so should be able to get answers to pretty much any questions you might have.

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